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Switzerland
Revisited
By
Ted Heck
Connie and I spent
two weeks in Switzerland this spring,
where I spent a couple of days on the
slopes of Meiringen and a week in the
gigantic Jungfrau Region.
It was a trip I organized
myself, showing that I sometimes fail
to practice what I preach. In touting
merits of membership in a ski club, I
often cite a primary benefit of having
someone else decide on a destination for
a club ski trip. A trip leader haggles
with travel agents and handles all details,
so interested parties only have to pony
up the price and climb aboard.
Here are several excuses
for doing this one myself. Probably the
most honest one was not being able to
make up my mind. There were so many choices
for this confirmed Europhile. Which country:
I can find my way to a water closet in
several tongues, but I am more comfortable
with German gutterals than lilting romance
languages. I chose a Swiss location where
German is dominant.
We
blew
100,000 frequent flyer miles and kidded
ourselves that we saved a lot of money
on airfare, conveniently forgetting the
magnitude of the credit card charges that
accumulated those miles. But we had the
freedom to pick our own dates and airports.
A skiing friend asks
“Why Europe?” when snow in the American
west is better than in the Alps and matchless
in how it is groomed. True—but ah the
ambience abroad. Charming and quaint villages,
castles, culturally rich cities, strange
accents, change of pace, even a chance
to see relatives. Also, there is that
quintessential difference for skiers---interconnected
mountains that reach to the horizon, sometimes
so far from the starting point that a
tired skier can return by a 30-minute
train or bus ride.
Our chief destination
was Grindelwald, the largest of several
villages beneath the impressive trio of
the Jungfrau, Mönch and Eiger mountains,
all higher than 13,000 feet. It has 4,000
plus residents, with three times as many
beds for tourists.
For Connie, who is susceptible to altitude
illness, Grindelwald’s low 3,400-feet
elevation was a blessing.
Connie did not ski,
but I tried to see how many of the 120
miles of linked runs and 45 lifts I could
handle. They were in the terrain that
also includes neighboring villages of
Wengen, Lauterbrunnen and Mürren. Wengen
is the finish line for the famed Lauberhorn
race. Of course, I missed my goal, but
consoled myself with “quality time.”
One adventure took
me in a cable car up to the Schilthorn
peak above Mürren. The revolving restaurant
offered a 360-degree lunch and a look
at vast snowfields and astounding peaks
adorned with glaciers. Every James Bond
fan has been atop the Schilthorn, if vicariously.
The restaurant was headquarters for villain
Telly Savalas in the movie “On Her Majesty’s
Secret Service.”
It was the only time
George Lazenby played Bond. We never heard
of him again, until he married tennis
star/commentator Pam Shriver.
Our headquarters in
Grindelwald was the Hotel Belvedere, located
300 meters from village center and the
train station, with a magnificent view
of the north face of the Eiger. The Belvedere
is a superior four-star family-run hotel
that celebrated its 100th anniversary
last year. It has a loyal following, some
of whom have been coming for 20 years.
Grindelwald is a year-round
resort and abundant in tradition, two
major credentials for being a member of
the Best of the Alps marketing group,
which includes 12 top resorts in five
alpine countries.
If you’d like to learn
more about this remarkable resort, check
out the Grindelwald page in “The Blue
Book of European Ski Resorts,” at www.bluebookski.com.
The map we have there will make you want
to see, too.
Find more information
for
U.S.,
Canadian, and
European
ski statistics and ski resort information here:
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