Entering Zug for lunch via sleigh

ZÜRICH
Western Gateway to the Austrian Alps

Oct 14, 2022
SocioLib
Travel

Bob Enzel

By Bob Enzel

Zürs, Austria with avalanche barriers
Zürs, Austria with avalanche barriers

The mountain towns and villages of St. Anton, Zürs, Lech, St. Christoff, Klosters, and other resorts—despite being deep in the Austrian Alps—are easily accessible from Zürich. Those who prefer not to drive can conveniently take a train without leaving the airport. Even more conveniently, the Arlberg Express bus can be boarded in the open space between the two adjacent terminals. Zürich Airport is very user-friendly, featuring a large grocery store, pet-friendly policies, numerous shops, and a spacious duty-free section.

Our small group arrived in Zürich separately. One traveler who arrived earlier booked a train to Langen and transferred to the resort by taxi. The larger group chose the bus, which dropped us off in the middle of town. While the Arlberg bus offers fewer travel options than the train, if it fits your schedule, I recommend it for an easier commute.

If you enter the Austrian mountains from the east, you will most likely arrive via Innsbruck. Having traveled both routes on several occasions, I find the Zürich route to be more convenient. We were picked up by the Hotel Enzian’s limousine, just a short ride to the front door of this charming hotel. Those who prefer the convenience of a car will find ample parking available in front of the hotel.

Zürs, Austria
Zürs, Austria

I have stayed in Lech many times, dating back to 1967 when it was an unknown ski village. Today, it’s an upscale ski destination with high-end shops and plenty of activity. For this trip, however, we chose Zürs for its more relaxed atmosphere and selected the family-owned yet renowned Hotel Enzian. Zürs, along with Lech, St. Anton, St. Christoff, and Klosters, has hosted numerous members of royalty over the years.

The hotel is beautifully managed by the Elsensohn family, approaching its 100th anniversary in 2027. What truly sets it apart is the hands-on attention from the entire family. The rooms are comfortably furnished with modern bathrooms, and the bar and lounge are welcoming and conveniently located near the dining area. For those with particular dietary preferences—like myself—there are many menu options, and the staff are eager to accommodate special requests.

Lech, Austria with beginner's hill in background
Lech, Austria with beginner’s hill in background

Most winter visitors come for the skiing, and they will be pleased to know that the hotel is ski-in, ski-out, with a ski lift right at the doorstep. The skiing in Zürs is world-class, offering seasoned skiers the opportunity to ski the “White Circuit,” a roundtrip from Zürs to Lech and back. Advanced skiers can also take mountain trails to St. Anton. For beginners, there is a variety of terrain just steps from the hotel.

For convenience, we rented our equipment rather than carrying it with us. This allowed us to explore other areas without the hassle of transporting skis, poles, boots, and helmets. The friendly Brandle Ski Shop offers top-of-the-line gear suitable for all skill levels and is just a 3- to 4-minute walk from the hotel. The hotel desk can also arrange lift passes and lessons if needed. Our group, with mixed abilities, scheduled both private and group lessons easily through the hotel staff.

Horse drawn sleigh ride
Horse drawn sleigh ride

To rest and explore, we took a horse-drawn sleigh ride to Lech for a fondue luncheon at Walchs Rotewand restaurant in Zug—a charming and popular excursion. Because this activity is in high demand, I recommend you have the desk arrange it for you as soon as possible. After the skiing portion of our trip, we returned to Zürich for a few days of sightseeing.

Opera House, Zurich
Opera House, Zurich

We even attended an opera at the elegant Zürich Opera House, located just across the street from our hotel,

The Ambassador. The Zürich Tourist Office provided a helpful guide and suggested restaurants and sights. We highly recommend beginning your sightseeing with a visit to the tourist office. They offer the “Zürich Card,” which includes free transportation, discounts, and lake tours—saving you time and money while providing valuable information.

Restaurant Terpasse, Zurich
Restaurant Terpasse, Zurich

A must-visit museum is the Kunsthaus Zürich, which features works from medieval artist Albrecht Dürer’s “Adam and Eve,” to paintings by Jan Breughel the Elder, Edvard Munch’s “The Scream,” and pieces by Monet, Dali, and Swiss artists Alberto Giacometti and Rodin’s “The Gates of Hell.” Before heading to dinner at the Terpasse—a restaurant we also recommend—located not far from The Ambassador Hotel, we explored the old city’s charming sights, including button shops, ancient chocolate emporiums, numerous fountains, and cobblestone walkways once navigated solely by horses and pedestrians. Small restaurants and shops along these streets offer endless entertainment as you explore Old Town.

Eventually, all good things come to an end. We boarded a direct flight home, leaving behind some souvenirs and wonderful memories of our trip to Zürich.

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